In the Atlantic in Finisterre
Saturday 16 July 2011
Finisterre
At the pilgrim mass on Wednesday I met 2 Japanese ladies I had seen and walked with a few times on the Camino. They are Naoka and Rika, both of whom now live in Canada. They had also decided to go to Finisterre the following day, so we arranged to travel down together.
On Thursday morning we caught the bus to Finisterre, a journey of 3 hours.
The coastline to Finisterre is absolutely beautiful, just like the west coast of Scotland around Fort William.
I identified a lovely resort called San Francisco as a place where I would like to go and live when I retire.
When we arrived in Finsiterre we were welcomed by people offering accomodation.
I had a lovely room to myself in a house for €15.
It was the first decent sleep I have had for ages.
Naoka met some friends she had met along the way and we all went for some lunch.
While we were there I met Ian, an English guy I had met on the very first day from St Jean to Rocevalles.
It was so good meeting up with him, and so we were able to chat about our caminos.
We all decided to go up to the lighthouse for sunset. We took a bottle of wine and some goodies to eat, but the weather wasn´t going to co-operate and the clouds started to roll in off the Atlantic.
We still drank the wine though :-)
Yesterday morning we returned to Santiago. This time the bus took 3,5hours to return.
Once back in santiago I met up with a young Korean girl whom I had met early on in the camino.
She was so excited to see me and gave me a big hug.
I am now walking around Santiago killing time until my train leaves tonight for Mdrid.
This time tomorrow I will be boarding my plane back to South Africa.
Happy birthday Andrew :-)
On Thursday morning we caught the bus to Finisterre, a journey of 3 hours.
The coastline to Finisterre is absolutely beautiful, just like the west coast of Scotland around Fort William.
I identified a lovely resort called San Francisco as a place where I would like to go and live when I retire.
When we arrived in Finsiterre we were welcomed by people offering accomodation.
I had a lovely room to myself in a house for €15.
It was the first decent sleep I have had for ages.
Naoka met some friends she had met along the way and we all went for some lunch.
While we were there I met Ian, an English guy I had met on the very first day from St Jean to Rocevalles.
It was so good meeting up with him, and so we were able to chat about our caminos.
We all decided to go up to the lighthouse for sunset. We took a bottle of wine and some goodies to eat, but the weather wasn´t going to co-operate and the clouds started to roll in off the Atlantic.
We still drank the wine though :-)
Yesterday morning we returned to Santiago. This time the bus took 3,5hours to return.
Once back in santiago I met up with a young Korean girl whom I had met early on in the camino.
She was so excited to see me and gave me a big hug.
I am now walking around Santiago killing time until my train leaves tonight for Mdrid.
This time tomorrow I will be boarding my plane back to South Africa.
Happy birthday Andrew :-)
Wednesday 13 July 2011
Santiago
Well - my camino has now officially finished.
This morning I walked the final 4kms into Santiago, went to the Pilgrim office and received my Compostella, then went to the cathedral for the Pilgrim mass, and hugged the statue of St. James.
I was hoping to be able to post a photo here, but this internet cafe doesn´t seem to allow that.
I am staying in a very nice place tonight. It is called Seminario Mejor. It is an old seminary that has been turned into a hotel. It is about 25m from one of the cathedral entrances. The cost is only €23 per night and includes breakfast. The breakfast looked really good this morning. Not bad at all.
Tomorrow I am going to take the bus to Finisterre and stay there the night.
I will return to Santiago on Friday, stay the night at the same hotel, then catch the train out on Saturday night.
I would like to take this opportunity to thank all my family and friends who gave me the necessary encouragement to complete this camino. It has been a long walk, but a job well done.
Monday 11 July 2011
O Pedrouzo
The final stretch.
I have decided that I won´t have time to walk to Finisterre, but will go there on Thursday by bus instead.
I´ll stay overnight there, then come back to Santiago on Friday, and then leave on Saturday for my long journey home.
This time next week I will be back home :-)
I have decided that I won´t have time to walk to Finisterre, but will go there on Thursday by bus instead.
I´ll stay overnight there, then come back to Santiago on Friday, and then leave on Saturday for my long journey home.
This time next week I will be back home :-)
Sunday 10 July 2011
Arzua
I thought I was going to get a good night´s sleep in the Pension last night -ha!
There was a fiesta on, so there was a lot of noise with drunken revellers still going strong in the early parts of the morning.
When it was time to leave there wasn´t a soul about, even though it was going on for 9am.
I hadn´t paid for my night´s stay, so I left a note saying I would send the money later when I got back to South Africa. When I arrived at the alberge here in Arzua I got the young lady who runs the place to phone the pension for me. She said that they had received my note, and it was ok.
They are very laid back here in Spain.
There is nothing to write about Arzua, its just a small stop-off town on the way to Santiago.
Just before entering the town there was the 40km marker, so Santiago is very close.
What most people do, and so will I, is stay tomorrow night in O Pedrouzo, then the following day head to Monte de Gozo which is 4,5kms away from Santiago. There is a huge alberge there. Then one sets off from there early the next morning and arrive in Santiago in time to receive the Compostela, and then go to the Pilgrim Mass in the Cathedral at 12 noon.
There was a fiesta on, so there was a lot of noise with drunken revellers still going strong in the early parts of the morning.
When it was time to leave there wasn´t a soul about, even though it was going on for 9am.
I hadn´t paid for my night´s stay, so I left a note saying I would send the money later when I got back to South Africa. When I arrived at the alberge here in Arzua I got the young lady who runs the place to phone the pension for me. She said that they had received my note, and it was ok.
They are very laid back here in Spain.
There is nothing to write about Arzua, its just a small stop-off town on the way to Santiago.
Just before entering the town there was the 40km marker, so Santiago is very close.
What most people do, and so will I, is stay tomorrow night in O Pedrouzo, then the following day head to Monte de Gozo which is 4,5kms away from Santiago. There is a huge alberge there. Then one sets off from there early the next morning and arrive in Santiago in time to receive the Compostela, and then go to the Pilgrim Mass in the Cathedral at 12 noon.
Saturday 9 July 2011
Melide
It was raining again this morning so it was an uncomfortable walk.
I got as far as Melide, 12km, and decided to pack it in for the day.
I quickly phoned Ricardo to tell him that I was staying here, and booked into a pension.
How nice it is to have a decent bed, clean sheets, a private bathroom with proper towels.
I tried to have a nap but was disturbed by fireworks and music and horns hooting.
There was a fiesta on the go - St Cristobal fiesta.
In the main street of the town there was a large open van all decorated with a band playing and a priest showering blessings on all the trucks of the neighbourhood. They all drove past, decorated and hooters blaring.
While I was watching that Noako and Rika (two Japanese ladies I have met along the way) came along, all wet and bedraggled. They have also booked into the same pension.
We will go and have dinner later on.
The speciality of Melide is pulpo (octopus), so I will try that.
Tomorrow I will take it easy again and walk to Arzua, which is only 13kms away.
I plan on reaching Santiago on Wednesday.
I got as far as Melide, 12km, and decided to pack it in for the day.
I quickly phoned Ricardo to tell him that I was staying here, and booked into a pension.
How nice it is to have a decent bed, clean sheets, a private bathroom with proper towels.
I tried to have a nap but was disturbed by fireworks and music and horns hooting.
There was a fiesta on the go - St Cristobal fiesta.
In the main street of the town there was a large open van all decorated with a band playing and a priest showering blessings on all the trucks of the neighbourhood. They all drove past, decorated and hooters blaring.
While I was watching that Noako and Rika (two Japanese ladies I have met along the way) came along, all wet and bedraggled. They have also booked into the same pension.
We will go and have dinner later on.
The speciality of Melide is pulpo (octopus), so I will try that.
Tomorrow I will take it easy again and walk to Arzua, which is only 13kms away.
I plan on reaching Santiago on Wednesday.
Friday 8 July 2011
Palas de Rei
It was a bit cool and misty when I left this morning but about 5km from Palas de Rei it turned into a steady drizzle.
For the first time since the first day I had to pull on my poncho. I am also wearing my fleece, its that cold.
The sign outside the pharmacy went from 18C to 14C in about half an hour.
There were hundreds of people walking along today, mostly schoolkids.
I guess thats the problem with coming on the camino when the schools are on holiday.
Ricardo and I have quite a good system worked out.
He likes to leave early when its still dark, so he shoots ahead and gets to an alberge nice and early.
He then reserves a place for me and phones me to let me know which alberge to head for.
That way we make sure we get a place.
Thats also a reason why I haven´t been pampering myself by staying in a hotel, I can´t let Ricardo down. He´s such a nice chap.
There really isn´t a whole lot to do in this town except eat, drink and relax. I am becoming good at all three activities - lol.
For the first time since the first day I had to pull on my poncho. I am also wearing my fleece, its that cold.
The sign outside the pharmacy went from 18C to 14C in about half an hour.
There were hundreds of people walking along today, mostly schoolkids.
I guess thats the problem with coming on the camino when the schools are on holiday.
Ricardo and I have quite a good system worked out.
He likes to leave early when its still dark, so he shoots ahead and gets to an alberge nice and early.
He then reserves a place for me and phones me to let me know which alberge to head for.
That way we make sure we get a place.
Thats also a reason why I haven´t been pampering myself by staying in a hotel, I can´t let Ricardo down. He´s such a nice chap.
There really isn´t a whole lot to do in this town except eat, drink and relax. I am becoming good at all three activities - lol.
Thursday 7 July 2011
They like us here.
I guess because we let them win the World Cup, lol.
On the way from Barbadelo to Portomarin I met another 2 South Africans. That is12 I have met now. The last 2 were a mother and daughter from Cape Twon.
Today was one of those days when I met up with people I have met since I started walking again in Astorga.
It is nice to meet up again with people you have walked a while with.
This evening in the church there was a classial music concert. A young man played the flute and then the guitar. He also sand a number of songs from different lands. I recognised 2 Hindi numbers he sand, plus a Hebrew one.
Tomorrow I will walk 22km to Palas de Rei.
This morning I was checking my speed against the km markers. In Galicia there are countdown markers every 0,5km. I was averaging 4,8km\hr which is pretty fast.
Of course I didn´t keep up that average as I then stopped and had coffee and something to eat.
I haven´t slept too well the last 2 nights because of noisy snorers, so if I don´t get a decent night´s sleep tonight I will check into a pension tomorrow night. It will be worth the extra cost to get a decent night sleep.
Yesterday I paid €6 and had all my clothes washed in a washing machine and dried in a dryer, so at least I have nice clean clothes.
Wednesday 6 July 2011
Sarria
I am in Sarria at the moment. Just popped into an internet cafe.
I´m not stopping here, but will carry on another 5 kms to Barbadelo.
Its still early, just after 12pm so I can stop for lunch on the way and still get there nice and early.
I can then have a sleep.
I didn´t sleep last night as there were 2 people in the monastery dormitory who snored loud the whole night.
Even with earplugs in you could hear them.
Everyone complained this morning about the noise they made.
When I arrived in Samos yesterday I was a bit too early to book into the dorm so I went to a bar for a beer, where I met up with Ricardo again.
There was also 2 ladies with a South African flag.
The one lady lives in Balito and works at the North Coast Crawford College. Her name is Maureen Thompson. The other lady (Estelle) now lives in Pretoria but lived in ´Toti for years.
I have met a total of 10 South Africans now on the Camino - all white - lol.
I´m not stopping here, but will carry on another 5 kms to Barbadelo.
Its still early, just after 12pm so I can stop for lunch on the way and still get there nice and early.
I can then have a sleep.
I didn´t sleep last night as there were 2 people in the monastery dormitory who snored loud the whole night.
Even with earplugs in you could hear them.
Everyone complained this morning about the noise they made.
When I arrived in Samos yesterday I was a bit too early to book into the dorm so I went to a bar for a beer, where I met up with Ricardo again.
There was also 2 ladies with a South African flag.
The one lady lives in Balito and works at the North Coast Crawford College. Her name is Maureen Thompson. The other lady (Estelle) now lives in Pretoria but lived in ´Toti for years.
I have met a total of 10 South Africans now on the Camino - all white - lol.
Spanish underwear
If you ever watch Rafa Nadal playing tennis you will notice that he is always tugging at his underpants.
Well, today I was walking behind 4 young teenage Spanish girls for a while, and I´m not kidding, every 2 minutes they were tugging at their underwear.
What is it about Spanish underwear, does it ride up constantly, or is tugging at one´s underwear just a Spanish characterisitc?
Well, today I was walking behind 4 young teenage Spanish girls for a while, and I´m not kidding, every 2 minutes they were tugging at their underwear.
What is it about Spanish underwear, does it ride up constantly, or is tugging at one´s underwear just a Spanish characterisitc?
Tuesday 5 July 2011
Samos
Today I walked the most delightful walk on a peaceful, shady walk to Samos where I met up with Ricardo again. Galicia is so beautiful - just like walking through Scotland or parts of KZN.
We are staying in the monastery - lol. It is very spartan but will be a good experience.
This afternoon we went on a tour of the monastery.
It is dedicated to St. Benedict who is the patron saint of Europe. Now you know Andrew :-)
Tomorrow we walk through Sarria on to Barbadelo, just 5 kms on th eother side of Sarria. Sarria marks the 100km that one has to walk in order to get a Compostella in Santiago.
I probably have only another 5 days to walk till I reach Santiago, so I am planning on maybe continuing to walk to Finisterre as I don catch the train from Santiago to Madrid until the 16th.
We are staying in the monastery - lol. It is very spartan but will be a good experience.
This afternoon we went on a tour of the monastery.
It is dedicated to St. Benedict who is the patron saint of Europe. Now you know Andrew :-)
Tomorrow we walk through Sarria on to Barbadelo, just 5 kms on th eother side of Sarria. Sarria marks the 100km that one has to walk in order to get a Compostella in Santiago.
I probably have only another 5 days to walk till I reach Santiago, so I am planning on maybe continuing to walk to Finisterre as I don catch the train from Santiago to Madrid until the 16th.
Monday 4 July 2011
Arrival in Galicia
I entered Galicia in the company of a family from Barcelona. The daughter´s name is Claudia, the mother´s Yolanda, and the father, who was taking the shot is Juan.
Yo y mi amigo Ricardo
I met Ricardo a few days ago and our paths keep on crossong. He is Spanish but now lives in Belgium. He is 48 years old, worked in the mines in Belgium for 10 years and is now on a full pension. These European countries sure know how to look after their citizens.
O Cebreiro
Last night was spent in the most amazing albergue. We had a wonderful dinner consisting of butternut squash soup, followed by tuna salad, followed by spaghetti, followed by baked custard. Of course, there was the usual bread, wine and water.
At 6am we were woken up with music resounding around the hostel.
There were pictures of the Dalai Lama and various Buddhas and Buddhist prayer flags.
We left after a lovely breakfast to Buddhist chants.
A very different experience.
Just before O Cebreiro we entered Galicia.
Being in O Cebreiro was like being in Scotland. Everything was Celtic with even Celtic music being played on the bagpipes,
The scenery is spectacular.
I continued on after O Cebreiro to Fonfria, another 12 kms.
At 6am we were woken up with music resounding around the hostel.
There were pictures of the Dalai Lama and various Buddhas and Buddhist prayer flags.
We left after a lovely breakfast to Buddhist chants.
A very different experience.
Just before O Cebreiro we entered Galicia.
Being in O Cebreiro was like being in Scotland. Everything was Celtic with even Celtic music being played on the bagpipes,
The scenery is spectacular.
I continued on after O Cebreiro to Fonfria, another 12 kms.
Sunday 3 July 2011
Villafranca - Ruitelan
It was an easy walk today to Ruitelan. I was going to go only to Vega de Valacarce, but I arrived there too early so I decided to walk a little further. Apparently tomorrow its quite a steep climb up to O Cebreiro.
There were 2 different routs out of Villafranca - one hard, the other harder - lol
The difficult route takes you over the mountains which would have been nice to do as the scenery would have been spectacular. The guide, however, warns that it can be dangerous as it is steep, especially coming down. I have already had one fall this walk, so I didn´t want to chance it. I also didn´t see anyone else taking that route and one thing I learned from the Mountain Backpackers Club is that you shouldn´t do such walks alone.
The route everyone was taking was very picturesque as it followed the Rio Valacarce. It was nice to hear the river running by as you walk along. This route also takes you through all the small villages on the way.
I can´t believe that it is 3 weeks since I arrived in Spain already. The time is flying past.
Love to everyone.
There were 2 different routs out of Villafranca - one hard, the other harder - lol
The difficult route takes you over the mountains which would have been nice to do as the scenery would have been spectacular. The guide, however, warns that it can be dangerous as it is steep, especially coming down. I have already had one fall this walk, so I didn´t want to chance it. I also didn´t see anyone else taking that route and one thing I learned from the Mountain Backpackers Club is that you shouldn´t do such walks alone.
The route everyone was taking was very picturesque as it followed the Rio Valacarce. It was nice to hear the river running by as you walk along. This route also takes you through all the small villages on the way.
I can´t believe that it is 3 weeks since I arrived in Spain already. The time is flying past.
Love to everyone.
Saturday 2 July 2011
Ponferrada - Villafranca
This is the Knight Templar castle in Ponferrada - very interesting seeing as how I am a Knight Templar. There was a lot of interesting manuscripts on display in the exhibition hall, including the order to exterminate the KTs.
The walk today was 23 kms to Villafranca del Bierzo, mostly through vineyards. There was quite a lot of uphill and it was hot again.
I had lunch in Cacabelos, spreading my stuff beneath a lovely tree in the town plaza. After eating I lay down in the shade, put my head on my backpack and slept for an hour. I bet the townsfolk must have thought I was terrible - lol - but I don´t care - I´m a peregrino.
Tomorrow I enter Galicia. I feel quite excited about that
Janis and Anna
These are two German girls who invited me to come and sit with them because they said I looked lonely by myself. The girl on the left is Janis (her father is an American GI living in Germany who liked Janis Joplin), she is 19 years old. The girl on the right is Anna who is 21 years old. When they heard that I had a son who was turning 19 soon they said I must take their photo and put it on my blog so that Andrew can see what he is missing by not coming on the Camino with me - lol
Friday 1 July 2011
Rabanal - Riego de Ambros - Ponferrada
There was no internet last night so I have to catch up 2 days.
The walk from Rabanal del Camino to Riego de Ambros was fantastic. It was up all the way until the highest point on the Camino. Just before reaching the highest point (1515m) one reaches the Cruz de Ferro. One is supposed to bring a stone from your home country and place it at the base. Well, I didn´t have one, so I just deposited a South African coin instead.
The walk in the mountains was amazing. The paths are like those in the berg, but the scenery is just stupendous. Last night at dinner I met 2 other South Africans, both of them being of German origin, but now living in SA. Funnily enough they were both called Wolfgang, but one lives in Cape Town (Constantia) and the other in Pretoria.
The walk today from Riego de Ambros to Ponferrada was downhill all the way through the mountains.
I have just booked in at the alberge and am now going to go and get some lunch, after which I will visit the Knight Templar´s castle, and other sights. There is going to be a festival here tonight, but we have to be safely tucked up in our beds by 22:30 :-)
I am doing well and feeling very healthy. My shorts are actually starting to fall down as I walk, so I am taking that as a good sign. I can also feel that my spare tyre around my waist has gone down a bit.
More tomorrow.
The walk from Rabanal del Camino to Riego de Ambros was fantastic. It was up all the way until the highest point on the Camino. Just before reaching the highest point (1515m) one reaches the Cruz de Ferro. One is supposed to bring a stone from your home country and place it at the base. Well, I didn´t have one, so I just deposited a South African coin instead.
The walk in the mountains was amazing. The paths are like those in the berg, but the scenery is just stupendous. Last night at dinner I met 2 other South Africans, both of them being of German origin, but now living in SA. Funnily enough they were both called Wolfgang, but one lives in Cape Town (Constantia) and the other in Pretoria.
The walk today from Riego de Ambros to Ponferrada was downhill all the way through the mountains.
I have just booked in at the alberge and am now going to go and get some lunch, after which I will visit the Knight Templar´s castle, and other sights. There is going to be a festival here tonight, but we have to be safely tucked up in our beds by 22:30 :-)
I am doing well and feeling very healthy. My shorts are actually starting to fall down as I walk, so I am taking that as a good sign. I can also feel that my spare tyre around my waist has gone down a bit.
More tomorrow.
Wednesday 29 June 2011
Rabanal del Camino
I managed to leave Astorga just after 7am this morning after my usual breakfast of coffee and chocolate croissant.
I was amazed that I reached Rabanal del Camino just before 12pm, a distance of 20km in less than 5 hours.
I did consider going on further, but the beer being served in the bar next to the alberge looked too inviting so I decided to take my boots off for the rest of the day.
Tomorrow there is still some uphill to go. I will pass the Cruz de Ferrol tomorrow. I didn´t bring a stone from home to place on it - no problem.
This stage of my Camino is now like a new camino for me.
All the people I started out with from St Jean are now at least a week behind me.
I had got to know quite a lot of people on that stage and it strange to think that I won´t be seeing them again.
There are all new people on this stage.
I am sure I will get to know some of them as well as there is still a long way to go to Santiago.
I was amazed that I reached Rabanal del Camino just before 12pm, a distance of 20km in less than 5 hours.
I did consider going on further, but the beer being served in the bar next to the alberge looked too inviting so I decided to take my boots off for the rest of the day.
Tomorrow there is still some uphill to go. I will pass the Cruz de Ferrol tomorrow. I didn´t bring a stone from home to place on it - no problem.
This stage of my Camino is now like a new camino for me.
All the people I started out with from St Jean are now at least a week behind me.
I had got to know quite a lot of people on that stage and it strange to think that I won´t be seeing them again.
There are all new people on this stage.
I am sure I will get to know some of them as well as there is still a long way to go to Santiago.
Tuesday 28 June 2011
Burgos - Leon - Astorga
It is strange to think that I left my 'Camino family' only yesterday afternoon, yet I am so far ahead of them now. I had a visit to the cathedral in Burgos yesterday. If one presents one´s pilgrim passport it is half price. It was a lovely cathedral and well-worth a visit.
After pounding the streets of Burgos this morning I took the 11:30 bus to Leon. This arrived at 15:00.
I walked out of the bus station, took one look at more city streets and became totally depressed at the thought of being in another city with another cathedral, so I went back into the bus station and took another bus to Astorga. I will begin walking again tomorrow morning to complete the 256kms to go in order to reach Santiago. I think they call it 'Camino fever' where one wants to just be out in the country, walking.
The countryside between Burgos and Leon was flat, featureless, and didn´t look very interesting. I was actually quite glad not to be walking through all that flat terrain.
Tomorrow I will be back in the mountains on the way to Rabanal, and then over the Montes de Leon to Molinaseca.
After pounding the streets of Burgos this morning I took the 11:30 bus to Leon. This arrived at 15:00.
I walked out of the bus station, took one look at more city streets and became totally depressed at the thought of being in another city with another cathedral, so I went back into the bus station and took another bus to Astorga. I will begin walking again tomorrow morning to complete the 256kms to go in order to reach Santiago. I think they call it 'Camino fever' where one wants to just be out in the country, walking.
The countryside between Burgos and Leon was flat, featureless, and didn´t look very interesting. I was actually quite glad not to be walking through all that flat terrain.
Tomorrow I will be back in the mountains on the way to Rabanal, and then over the Montes de Leon to Molinaseca.
Monday 27 June 2011
Azofra to Burgos
This morning I had an early start and walked the 16,8km from Azofra to Santo Domingo de la Calzada in the morning before it got too hot. After a lunch of beer and lemon and tortilla I caught the bus to Burgos.
The albergue in Burgos is huge. I am on the 5th floor, but it only cost €4 a night, which is cheap.
When the bus arrived at the bus station the temperature showing on the sign was 41C - mucho calor!
I have had my shower and washed and hung my clothes from the day so now I am going to go out and explore this city. The cathedral is supposed to be well worth a visit.
Tomorrow I will catch the bus on to Leon, and after a night there on to Astorga where I will resume walking.
The distance from Astorga to Santiago is 256kms. I aim to complete it in about 14 days.
The albergue in Burgos is huge. I am on the 5th floor, but it only cost €4 a night, which is cheap.
When the bus arrived at the bus station the temperature showing on the sign was 41C - mucho calor!
I have had my shower and washed and hung my clothes from the day so now I am going to go out and explore this city. The cathedral is supposed to be well worth a visit.
Tomorrow I will catch the bus on to Leon, and after a night there on to Astorga where I will resume walking.
The distance from Astorga to Santiago is 256kms. I aim to complete it in about 14 days.
Sunday 26 June 2011
Azofra
I forgot to mention in yesterday´s posting that Logroño has the most amazing parks that one walks through to leave the city. It stretches on for miles and has every type of recreational facility available. There is even a lake in it where on can fish (with a permit - they were checking them). There are paths for running on, paths for cycling on, tarred paths, paths through wooded areas, braai areas, kids areas, picnic areas - really good.
The walk from Navarette to Azofra was hellish. We all stopped in Najara for lunch and then had to walk a further 5 kms to Azofra. It was like walking through the karroo - so dry and hot. The lady in the reception of the hostel said it was 40C today.
The hostel here, however, is good. Its amazing how many people I met up with today who were walking from St Jean the same day as I left.
It is now 10 days since I left St jean, and I passed the 200km mark just after lunch. This means I have been averaging 20km a day, which was my target before setting out.
Tomorrow I will walk 17km to Santo Domingo de Calzada where I will then catch the bus through to Burgos. I will then be catching the bus through to Leon, and then on to Astorga before commencing walking again.
The walk from Navarette to Azofra was hellish. We all stopped in Najara for lunch and then had to walk a further 5 kms to Azofra. It was like walking through the karroo - so dry and hot. The lady in the reception of the hostel said it was 40C today.
The hostel here, however, is good. Its amazing how many people I met up with today who were walking from St Jean the same day as I left.
It is now 10 days since I left St jean, and I passed the 200km mark just after lunch. This means I have been averaging 20km a day, which was my target before setting out.
Tomorrow I will walk 17km to Santo Domingo de Calzada where I will then catch the bus through to Burgos. I will then be catching the bus through to Leon, and then on to Astorga before commencing walking again.
Saturday 25 June 2011
Logroño and Navarette
My 'Camino family' and I arrived in Logroño quite late in the afternoon. Stopped quite a while in Vianna where there was a beautiful church. I lit a candle there, something I have never done in a church before.
After a shower and washing clothes there was only time to go into the centre of the town to have dinner.
We had to be back in the alberge by 21:30 otherwise we would be locked out.
The night was very disturbed by drunk youths in the streets outside making a noise all night. I am really tired today from lack of sleep.
Its amazing how soon you become accustomed to the quiet of the countryside and resent being in cities and towns.
This morning we said goodbye to Javier as he had to leave to go to Burgos to meet up with his wife and son at her parents home there. I have, however, now got a new 'Camino daughter' - a 20 year-old Japanese girl called Ren. She is very sweet and is walking the Camino by herself. Quite a feat when you think she doesn´t speak a word of Spanish. She is a student studying to be a social worker.
It was so hot today we only got to Navarette before booking into an alberge. It was just too hot to carry on.
Apparently the temperature for tomorrow is forecast to be 37C which is going to be killing.
More tomorrow.
After a shower and washing clothes there was only time to go into the centre of the town to have dinner.
We had to be back in the alberge by 21:30 otherwise we would be locked out.
The night was very disturbed by drunk youths in the streets outside making a noise all night. I am really tired today from lack of sleep.
Its amazing how soon you become accustomed to the quiet of the countryside and resent being in cities and towns.
This morning we said goodbye to Javier as he had to leave to go to Burgos to meet up with his wife and son at her parents home there. I have, however, now got a new 'Camino daughter' - a 20 year-old Japanese girl called Ren. She is very sweet and is walking the Camino by herself. Quite a feat when you think she doesn´t speak a word of Spanish. She is a student studying to be a social worker.
It was so hot today we only got to Navarette before booking into an alberge. It was just too hot to carry on.
Apparently the temperature for tomorrow is forecast to be 37C which is going to be killing.
More tomorrow.
Thursday 23 June 2011
Losing weight
I remember reading before I left that some people use the Camino to lose weight.
I really can´t see that happening.
I have been eating so well on this walk.
Take last night´s dinner for example.
Starters was a choice of various salads and meat dishes.
I chose the spaghetti, tomotato and cheese - all swimming in olive oil.
For the main course I chose a dish of lovely salmon and potato scallops (again olive oil).
Dessert was fruit salad.
With every meal there is always a bottle of wine, and bread.
This was the Pilgrim meal for €10.
During the course of the day we had had a picnic lunch in Los Arcos consisting of bread, cheese, choriso, fruits, cake, and beer.
The food is so tasty and the beer and wine really fabulous.
Andrew, the chocolate is out of this world. Yesterday I bought a bar of Lindt dark chocolate for only €1.
Usually I buy a cheaper one, but I couldn´t resist getting the Lindt. That´s the equivalent of a bar of Lindt for R10. You check how much that would cost in Woolies or Checkers.
It i snow 6:15 - tim eto get ready to walk.
The weather forecast is for hot weather again, so it will be good to get going before it does get too hot.
More from Logroño.
I really can´t see that happening.
I have been eating so well on this walk.
Take last night´s dinner for example.
Starters was a choice of various salads and meat dishes.
I chose the spaghetti, tomotato and cheese - all swimming in olive oil.
For the main course I chose a dish of lovely salmon and potato scallops (again olive oil).
Dessert was fruit salad.
With every meal there is always a bottle of wine, and bread.
This was the Pilgrim meal for €10.
During the course of the day we had had a picnic lunch in Los Arcos consisting of bread, cheese, choriso, fruits, cake, and beer.
The food is so tasty and the beer and wine really fabulous.
Andrew, the chocolate is out of this world. Yesterday I bought a bar of Lindt dark chocolate for only €1.
Usually I buy a cheaper one, but I couldn´t resist getting the Lindt. That´s the equivalent of a bar of Lindt for R10. You check how much that would cost in Woolies or Checkers.
It i snow 6:15 - tim eto get ready to walk.
The weather forecast is for hot weather again, so it will be good to get going before it does get too hot.
More from Logroño.
Estella - Villamayor de Monjardin - Torres de Rio
I wasn´t able to find an internet yesterday and was unable to post anything.
For the past couple of days I have been walking in the company of Javier, Francoise and Lisa. We have been having a great time, acting like children, laughing and playing stupid tricks on each other. This has been really good for me and I feel myself becoming wonderfully relaxed. We have formed a little ´Camino family´. I am the grandfather, Javier is my younger brother, Francoise is the mother, and Lisa is the young daughter. She is the same age as Claire and is always dropping things along the way.
We all left Estella after lunch on Tuesday and walked just 9kms to Villamayor de Monjardin where we stayed in a hostel run by a Dutch group called Oasis. They were very nice and we had a home-cooked meal which was very welcome. It was a sort of vegetable curry with rice for the main course, after a starter of salad. The pudding was blueberry yoghurt and a cherry on top. The cherries are in season in Spain at the moment and are really tasty. We bought a bagfull at lunchtime today. Of course, there was the usual bottle of wine.
Talking of wine, on the way to Villamayor we passed the Fuente del Vino, a fountain which gives wine instead of water. We laughed like mad when a car pulled up and filled up a 2 litre bottle. The fountain is supposed to be for the benefit of pilgrims.
After dinner we all attended a meditation, and this was followed by a cup of mint tea.
This morning we headed off and had lunch at Los Arcos. Most people stopped off there, but we continued to Torres de Rio. Tomorrow Logroño will be our destination.
For the past couple of days I have been walking in the company of Javier, Francoise and Lisa. We have been having a great time, acting like children, laughing and playing stupid tricks on each other. This has been really good for me and I feel myself becoming wonderfully relaxed. We have formed a little ´Camino family´. I am the grandfather, Javier is my younger brother, Francoise is the mother, and Lisa is the young daughter. She is the same age as Claire and is always dropping things along the way.
We all left Estella after lunch on Tuesday and walked just 9kms to Villamayor de Monjardin where we stayed in a hostel run by a Dutch group called Oasis. They were very nice and we had a home-cooked meal which was very welcome. It was a sort of vegetable curry with rice for the main course, after a starter of salad. The pudding was blueberry yoghurt and a cherry on top. The cherries are in season in Spain at the moment and are really tasty. We bought a bagfull at lunchtime today. Of course, there was the usual bottle of wine.
Talking of wine, on the way to Villamayor we passed the Fuente del Vino, a fountain which gives wine instead of water. We laughed like mad when a car pulled up and filled up a 2 litre bottle. The fountain is supposed to be for the benefit of pilgrims.
After dinner we all attended a meditation, and this was followed by a cup of mint tea.
This morning we headed off and had lunch at Los Arcos. Most people stopped off there, but we continued to Torres de Rio. Tomorrow Logroño will be our destination.
Tuesday 21 June 2011
Estella
¡ Hoy hacer mucho calor! This means Ít is very hot today. They forecast 33C for the region, and it was. Thank goodness they have forecast that tomorrow will be cooler, only 23C. I will welcome the cooler weather, as long as it doesn´t rain.
Today I took rather a nasty tumble. I was going down a steep, rocky slope when the rock I stood on rolled away under my foot. My walking stick, which was giving trouble, just collapsed under my falling weight and I went head-first into the ground. Fortunately I had Lisa and Xavier walking with me, so they helped me up, sat me down, and waited with me while I recovered and got over the shock. Lisa is a very nice young lady from Wales and Xavier a nice man from Madrid. We were all in the same room last night and so walked together the whole of today.
Fortunately I am strong, so no bones broken, but my shoulder is a bit wrenched and I have a couple of other aches and pains. I´ll take a couple of Ibuprofen tonight when I go to bed. Thats why I wanted to bring it Maya - for such an eventuality!
I remember Sylvia had a fall in the early days of her Camino this year, I wonder if it was the same slope.
We have all booked into a very nice hostel run by those with intellectual disabilities.
You can see the webpage at : http://www.albergueanfas.org/
Today I took rather a nasty tumble. I was going down a steep, rocky slope when the rock I stood on rolled away under my foot. My walking stick, which was giving trouble, just collapsed under my falling weight and I went head-first into the ground. Fortunately I had Lisa and Xavier walking with me, so they helped me up, sat me down, and waited with me while I recovered and got over the shock. Lisa is a very nice young lady from Wales and Xavier a nice man from Madrid. We were all in the same room last night and so walked together the whole of today.
Fortunately I am strong, so no bones broken, but my shoulder is a bit wrenched and I have a couple of other aches and pains. I´ll take a couple of Ibuprofen tonight when I go to bed. Thats why I wanted to bring it Maya - for such an eventuality!
I remember Sylvia had a fall in the early days of her Camino this year, I wonder if it was the same slope.
We have all booked into a very nice hostel run by those with intellectual disabilities.
You can see the webpage at : http://www.albergueanfas.org/
Monday 20 June 2011
Dinner in Punta de Reina
I stopped for the night at this private alberge which is attached to a hotel. It cost a little more than usual, but I am in an air-conditioned room with just 7 other people, plus we have a private bathroom - very nice.
Tonight we had dinner in the hotel. It was a buffet €11-50 to eat as much as you like. There was 6 of us at the table and we had 4 bottles of wine between the 6 of us, all included in the price. We all ate until bursting.
Besides myself from South Africa there was a man (Uwe) from Germany, Francoise from Holland, Lisa from Wales, Marco from Switzerland, and a young Japanese girl called Ren. We had such a great time eating, drinking and laughing. What is really strange that with so many nationalities the common language was English. Both Ren and Uwe actually spent 2 nights here. If I had known about this place I would have had my rest day here too. It is really lovely.
Tomorrow they start serving breakfast from 6am, but I don´t think anyone in our room will be there at that time. It is now 22:20 and everyone is still up and about. In the other alberges till now everyone was in bed and asleep by 9pm.
As Paul Kruger said: ¨More is nog ´n dag¨.
Its my camino, and I am enjoying it.
Tonight we had dinner in the hotel. It was a buffet €11-50 to eat as much as you like. There was 6 of us at the table and we had 4 bottles of wine between the 6 of us, all included in the price. We all ate until bursting.
Besides myself from South Africa there was a man (Uwe) from Germany, Francoise from Holland, Lisa from Wales, Marco from Switzerland, and a young Japanese girl called Ren. We had such a great time eating, drinking and laughing. What is really strange that with so many nationalities the common language was English. Both Ren and Uwe actually spent 2 nights here. If I had known about this place I would have had my rest day here too. It is really lovely.
Tomorrow they start serving breakfast from 6am, but I don´t think anyone in our room will be there at that time. It is now 22:20 and everyone is still up and about. In the other alberges till now everyone was in bed and asleep by 9pm.
As Paul Kruger said: ¨More is nog ´n dag¨.
Its my camino, and I am enjoying it.
Punta de Reina
It is so hot today.
I left Zizur Mayor at 7:15 this morning and made it the 20km to here by 13:00. Not too bad.
I had planned on maybe going further but it was so hot I decided it would be stupid to walk further in this heat.
I have been meeting up with people I met in St Jean and elsewhere along the way.
Either I am walking very fast, or they are walking very slow. And I thought I was taking it easy.
I have stopped tonight at a private alberge for a little luxury.
I am sharing a room with only 7 other people, and we have our own bathroom.
By getting in early I managed to get myself the bottom bunk :-)
Tomorrow another 22km to Estella.
I left Zizur Mayor at 7:15 this morning and made it the 20km to here by 13:00. Not too bad.
I had planned on maybe going further but it was so hot I decided it would be stupid to walk further in this heat.
I have been meeting up with people I met in St Jean and elsewhere along the way.
Either I am walking very fast, or they are walking very slow. And I thought I was taking it easy.
I have stopped tonight at a private alberge for a little luxury.
I am sharing a room with only 7 other people, and we have our own bathroom.
By getting in early I managed to get myself the bottom bunk :-)
Tomorrow another 22km to Estella.
Sunday 19 June 2011
Zizur Mayor
Today was a bit of a rest day. I left Trinidad de Arre at about 7:45 this morning and walked back into Pamplona. I spent some time looking at the main park in Pamplona. It is such a lovely town with very nice parks. I then visited the campus of the University of Navarra before walking up the hill out of Pamplona in the company of a French lady and her 22 year-old daughter. It was actually the daughter who could speak English.
I have met so many nice people on this walk, many of whom live in Europe and who just close the door to their home and start walking from there. By the time they reach St Jean many of them have already walked many hundreds of kilometres already.
I booked into a very nice Alberge for the night run by a friendly lady called Maribel. The alberge is set in a very large shady garden. After luch I lay down on the grass under a tree and had a sleep :-)
For lunch I went to a bar/restaurant and had a beer and a slice of potato and prawn pie. There were many people sitting there drinking and eating with lots of children all running around kicking soccer balls or playing on their cycles. A tear came to my eye when I thought of how free, safe and unconcerned they all are. I sent an sms to Maya then saying we need to come and live in Spain.
I don´t feel like going to eat a big dinner tonight so have bought some soup, bread, cheese and an orange. I will just eat tonight in the dining room at the alberge.
Thanks Pat and Andrew for remembering it was father´s day - lol.I had totaly forgotten.
Tomorrow there is a big hill over to Punta del Reina.
More tomorrow.
I have met so many nice people on this walk, many of whom live in Europe and who just close the door to their home and start walking from there. By the time they reach St Jean many of them have already walked many hundreds of kilometres already.
I booked into a very nice Alberge for the night run by a friendly lady called Maribel. The alberge is set in a very large shady garden. After luch I lay down on the grass under a tree and had a sleep :-)
For lunch I went to a bar/restaurant and had a beer and a slice of potato and prawn pie. There were many people sitting there drinking and eating with lots of children all running around kicking soccer balls or playing on their cycles. A tear came to my eye when I thought of how free, safe and unconcerned they all are. I sent an sms to Maya then saying we need to come and live in Spain.
I don´t feel like going to eat a big dinner tonight so have bought some soup, bread, cheese and an orange. I will just eat tonight in the dining room at the alberge.
Thanks Pat and Andrew for remembering it was father´s day - lol.I had totaly forgotten.
Tomorrow there is a big hill over to Punta del Reina.
More tomorrow.
Saturday 18 June 2011
Trinidad de Arre
Today was a lovely,easy 16km walk overthe hills to the most delightful hostel called Trinidad de Arre. It used to be a convent and is attached to a lovely little church. The hostel is maintained by a very helpful, friendly Spanish man who keeps it immaculately clean. A really delightful place. It costs only €7 a night and there is a lovely garden to sit in. Its on the banks of a river and you cross an ancient stone bridge to get to it. At 7pm thereis a Pilgrim prayerin the church which I think I shall attend. After that it dinner time. There is a special pilgrim menu for €8.
The place I am at is 4,5 kms before Pamplona.I decided to stop here rather than in Pamplona as I was in Pamplona the otherday, so tomorrow I can just walk through Pamplona to the other side and out again.
The place I am at is 4,5 kms before Pamplona.I decided to stop here rather than in Pamplona as I was in Pamplona the otherday, so tomorrow I can just walk through Pamplona to the other side and out again.
Friday 17 June 2011
Zubiri
20km today to Zubiri.
I realised today that I made a bad error yesterday.
I should have left St. Jean later in the day and walked the 10km to Orissa and then stayed over there till this morning before walking into Rocevalles. Walking the 26 kms in the rain over the mountains really took it out of me, so today I was really tired walking. Also, the sole of my left foot is starting to really pain. I hope it isn´t a blister forming.
Anyway, what is done is done.
Tomorrow its another 20km into Pamplona.
This morning I walkd for a while with an Italian chap called Pierro. He couldn´t speak English, and I don´t speak Italian, so we managed to get along by speaking pidgeon French to each other. Its amazing who you meet on this walk and the friends you make. I have met some really nice people.
I am really tired today so will hit the bed strainght after dinner.
I realised today that I made a bad error yesterday.
I should have left St. Jean later in the day and walked the 10km to Orissa and then stayed over there till this morning before walking into Rocevalles. Walking the 26 kms in the rain over the mountains really took it out of me, so today I was really tired walking. Also, the sole of my left foot is starting to really pain. I hope it isn´t a blister forming.
Anyway, what is done is done.
Tomorrow its another 20km into Pamplona.
This morning I walkd for a while with an Italian chap called Pierro. He couldn´t speak English, and I don´t speak Italian, so we managed to get along by speaking pidgeon French to each other. Its amazing who you meet on this walk and the friends you make. I have met some really nice people.
I am really tired today so will hit the bed strainght after dinner.
Thursday 16 June 2011
Ok - its Thursday. In Tuesday I travelled from Madrid to Pamplona by train. What a lovely ride. Spent the night in Pamplona - no bulls running around the streets :-( Then, yesterday morning I arrived at the bus station at 7:30 to take a bus to Roncevalles, only to find out that there is only 1 bus a day, at 6pm. Fortunately there was another peregrino also wanting to get through, a very nice Spanish guy called Jose. We chatted and decided to try and get another to share a taxi with us, but we then met a German man called Heinz who had walked to Pamplona from Germany and was catching the train to San Sebastian and then going on to Bayonne in France. We ended up travelling with him, picking up a mad Australian along the way called Cressie. We then picked up another Spanish lady who lives in Switzerland and we eventually arrived in St Jean Pied-de-Port at 4pm.
This morning, after breakfast (€8 for bed and breakfast in the albergue) we all set out for Roncevalles, back in Spain. It was a wet, misty, miserable 26kms over the Pyrennes. We didn´t see a damned thing because of the mist and rain.
I met up with a nice guy called Ian from Stoke on Trent and the 2 of us arrived in Roncevalles at 4pm.
After a nice hot shower we went and had a couple of beers in the bar.
At 7pm we had the Pilgrim´s dinner - potato soup. trout and chips, yoghurt and a bottle of wine, all for €9.
At European prices this is good. just don´t convert to Rands.
The refugio here in Roncevalles is really nice, recently renovated and very sparkling and new.
My clothes from today are in the dryer so I will have nice dry clothes to wear tomorrow when I will walk only 20km to Zubiri.
This morning, after breakfast (€8 for bed and breakfast in the albergue) we all set out for Roncevalles, back in Spain. It was a wet, misty, miserable 26kms over the Pyrennes. We didn´t see a damned thing because of the mist and rain.
I met up with a nice guy called Ian from Stoke on Trent and the 2 of us arrived in Roncevalles at 4pm.
After a nice hot shower we went and had a couple of beers in the bar.
At 7pm we had the Pilgrim´s dinner - potato soup. trout and chips, yoghurt and a bottle of wine, all for €9.
At European prices this is good. just don´t convert to Rands.
The refugio here in Roncevalles is really nice, recently renovated and very sparkling and new.
My clothes from today are in the dryer so I will have nice dry clothes to wear tomorrow when I will walk only 20km to Zubiri.
Monday 13 June 2011
Madrid
Arrived in Madrid yesterday after a long, tiring flight from Durban, via Dubai.
After checking in at my hotel I went to discover Madrid.
What a fantastic place.
My hotel is a nice quiet, clean hotel in a suburb called Barrio de la Conception, so all the street names are of some virgin or another .
There is a busstop right outside the door and the number 53 bus takes you right into the centre of town.
I couldn´t believe what I saw - the streets were full of people strolling, skateboarbing, cycling, walking their dogs, eating, drinking, making out, etc till late in the evening.
What a wonderful life, no having to look over one´s shoulder all the time to see who´s following you.
I was amazed at how many old ladies there are in Madrid, and they are all out dressed up and walking, talking, smoking, and just experiencing life.
Today I spent the day sight-seeing. There are great tourist buses that you can jump on and off.
I did the complete tours before deciding where to get off.
There are 2 separate tours, Madrid historical and Madrid modern.
What a laugh, I met 2 separate South African couples on the tours. One couple from Sasolburg (mother and daughter), and 2 ladies from Pretoria. Come to Spain and speak Afrikaans - lol.
They had been down in Granada for a conference and were spending a day in Madrid before flying back to SA.
I spent most of my time in the parks and the botanical gardens.
Madrid has the most wonderful parks, so big and so well tended.
The Real (Royal) Botanical Garden is a true botanical garden in the true sense of the word, not just a motley collection of plants like Durban has.
It was very hot here today. At 16:30 it was still 36C.
In fact, on the TV they were reporting on how hot it was all over Spain today.
Tomorrow morning I catch the train to Pamplona, and begin my Camino proper.
After checking in at my hotel I went to discover Madrid.
What a fantastic place.
My hotel is a nice quiet, clean hotel in a suburb called Barrio de la Conception, so all the street names are of some virgin or another .
There is a busstop right outside the door and the number 53 bus takes you right into the centre of town.
I couldn´t believe what I saw - the streets were full of people strolling, skateboarbing, cycling, walking their dogs, eating, drinking, making out, etc till late in the evening.
What a wonderful life, no having to look over one´s shoulder all the time to see who´s following you.
I was amazed at how many old ladies there are in Madrid, and they are all out dressed up and walking, talking, smoking, and just experiencing life.
Today I spent the day sight-seeing. There are great tourist buses that you can jump on and off.
I did the complete tours before deciding where to get off.
There are 2 separate tours, Madrid historical and Madrid modern.
What a laugh, I met 2 separate South African couples on the tours. One couple from Sasolburg (mother and daughter), and 2 ladies from Pretoria. Come to Spain and speak Afrikaans - lol.
They had been down in Granada for a conference and were spending a day in Madrid before flying back to SA.
I spent most of my time in the parks and the botanical gardens.
Madrid has the most wonderful parks, so big and so well tended.
The Real (Royal) Botanical Garden is a true botanical garden in the true sense of the word, not just a motley collection of plants like Durban has.
It was very hot here today. At 16:30 it was still 36C.
In fact, on the TV they were reporting on how hot it was all over Spain today.
Tomorrow morning I catch the train to Pamplona, and begin my Camino proper.
Saturday 11 June 2011
Sunday 5 June 2011
This time next week
This time next week I will be in Madrid. I can't believe it.
Yesterday I went to the bank and organised my travel wallet and bought some Euros.
I leave next Saturday evening from Durban on Emirates via Dubai.
I will be in Madrid just after lunch time (I hope I get lunch on the plane).
Today I bought myself a Kodak PlaySport video camera, so I hope I will be able to upload some video footage onto this site.
I have been looking through various suggestions on the Camino forum and adding things to my backpack that other peregrinos said they found useful.
Weight is always an over-riding issue - the weight of the backpack, not mine :-)
I am hoping that after walking for 30+ days I will lose a few kgs.
Yesterday I went to the bank and organised my travel wallet and bought some Euros.
I leave next Saturday evening from Durban on Emirates via Dubai.
I will be in Madrid just after lunch time (I hope I get lunch on the plane).
Today I bought myself a Kodak PlaySport video camera, so I hope I will be able to upload some video footage onto this site.
I have been looking through various suggestions on the Camino forum and adding things to my backpack that other peregrinos said they found useful.
Weight is always an over-riding issue - the weight of the backpack, not mine :-)
I am hoping that after walking for 30+ days I will lose a few kgs.
Wednesday 1 June 2011
Getting ready
I had a totally sleepless night last night - I finally booked my flight to Madrid.
I also booked a couple of night's accomodation there, and then a train ride to Pamplona.
I am feeling very, very nervous as I haven't travelled by myself for a long time.
All my recent travelling has been either with Maya, or with Andrew.
Its so much easier when one has someone else to worry about.
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