Wednesday, 29 June 2011

Rabanal del Camino

I managed to leave Astorga just after 7am this morning after my usual breakfast of coffee and chocolate croissant.

I was amazed that I reached Rabanal del Camino just before 12pm, a distance of 20km in less than 5 hours.
I did consider going on further, but the beer being served in the bar next to the alberge looked too inviting so I decided to take my boots off for the rest of the day.

Tomorrow there is still some uphill to go. I will pass the Cruz de Ferrol tomorrow. I didn´t bring a stone from home to place on it - no problem.

This stage of my Camino is now like a new camino for me.
All the people I started out with from St Jean are now at least a week behind me.
I had got to know quite a lot of people on that stage and it strange to think that I won´t be seeing them again.
There are all new people on this stage.
I am sure I will get to know some of them as well as there is still a long way to go to Santiago.

Tuesday, 28 June 2011

Burgos - Leon - Astorga

It is strange to think that I left my 'Camino family' only yesterday afternoon, yet I am so far ahead of them now. I had a visit to the cathedral in Burgos yesterday. If one presents one´s pilgrim passport it is half price. It was a lovely cathedral and well-worth a visit.

After pounding the streets of Burgos this morning I took the 11:30 bus to Leon. This arrived at 15:00.
I walked out of the bus station, took one look at more city streets and became totally depressed at the thought of being in another city with another cathedral, so I went back into the bus station and took another bus to Astorga. I will begin walking again tomorrow morning to complete the 256kms to go in order to reach Santiago. I think they call it 'Camino fever' where one wants to just be out in the country, walking.

The countryside between Burgos and Leon was flat, featureless, and didn´t look very interesting. I was actually quite glad not to be walking through all that flat terrain.

Tomorrow I will be back in the mountains on the way to Rabanal, and then over the Montes de Leon to Molinaseca.

Monday, 27 June 2011

Azofra to Burgos

This morning I had an early start and walked the 16,8km from Azofra to Santo Domingo de la Calzada in the morning before it got too hot. After a lunch of beer and lemon and tortilla I caught the bus to Burgos.
The albergue in Burgos is huge. I am on the 5th floor, but it only cost €4 a night, which is cheap.
When the bus arrived at the bus station the temperature showing on the sign was 41C - mucho calor!

I have had my shower and washed and hung my clothes from the day so now I am going to go out and explore this city. The cathedral is supposed to be well worth a visit.

Tomorrow I will catch the bus on to Leon, and after a night there on to Astorga where I will resume walking.
The distance from Astorga to Santiago is 256kms.  I aim to complete it in about 14 days.

Sunday, 26 June 2011

Azofra


These are warning signs that dogs patrol the area.

Azofra

I forgot to mention in yesterday´s posting that Logroño has the most amazing parks that one walks through to leave the city. It stretches on for miles and has every type of recreational facility available. There is even a lake in it where on can fish (with a permit - they were checking them). There are paths for running on, paths for cycling on, tarred paths, paths through wooded areas, braai areas, kids areas, picnic areas - really good.

The walk from Navarette to Azofra was hellish. We all stopped in Najara for lunch and then had to walk a further 5 kms to Azofra. It was like walking through the karroo - so dry and hot. The lady in the reception of the hostel said it was 40C today.

The hostel here, however, is good.  Its amazing how many people I met up with today who were walking from St Jean the same day as I left.

It is now 10 days since I left St jean, and I passed the 200km mark just after lunch. This means I have been averaging 20km a day, which was my target before setting out.

Tomorrow I will walk 17km to Santo Domingo de Calzada where I will then catch the bus through to Burgos. I will then be catching the bus through to Leon, and then on to Astorga before commencing walking again.

Saturday, 25 June 2011

Logroño and Navarette

My 'Camino family' and I arrived in Logroño quite late in the afternoon. Stopped quite a while in Vianna where there was a beautiful church. I lit a candle there, something I have never done in a church before.
After a shower and washing clothes there was only time to go into the centre of the town to have dinner.
We had to be back in the alberge by 21:30 otherwise we would be locked out.
The night was very disturbed by drunk youths in the streets outside making a noise all night. I am really tired today from lack of sleep.
Its amazing how soon you become accustomed to the quiet of the countryside and resent being in cities and towns.

This morning we said goodbye to Javier as he had to leave to go to Burgos to meet up with his wife and son at her parents home there. I have, however, now got a new 'Camino daughter' - a 20 year-old Japanese girl called Ren. She is very sweet and is walking the Camino by herself. Quite a feat when you think she doesn´t speak a word of Spanish. She is a student studying to be a social worker.

It was so hot today we only got to Navarette before booking into an alberge. It was just too hot to carry on.
Apparently the temperature for tomorrow is forecast to be 37C which is going to be killing.

More tomorrow.

Thursday, 23 June 2011

Losing weight

I remember reading before I left that some people use the Camino to lose weight.
I really can´t see that happening.
I have been eating so well on this walk.
Take last night´s dinner for example.
Starters was a choice of various salads and meat dishes.
I chose the spaghetti, tomotato and cheese - all swimming in olive oil.
For the main course I chose a dish of lovely salmon and potato scallops (again olive oil).
Dessert was fruit salad.
With every meal there is always a bottle of wine, and bread.
This was the Pilgrim meal for €10.

During the course of the day we had had a picnic lunch in Los Arcos consisting of bread, cheese, choriso, fruits, cake, and beer.

The food is so tasty and the beer and wine really fabulous.
Andrew, the chocolate is out of this world. Yesterday I bought a bar of Lindt dark chocolate for only €1.
Usually I buy a cheaper one, but I couldn´t resist getting the Lindt. That´s the equivalent of a bar of Lindt for R10. You check how much that would cost in Woolies or Checkers.

It i snow 6:15 - tim eto get ready to walk.
The weather forecast is for hot weather again, so it will be good to get going before it does get too hot.

More from Logroño.